Other Misc. stuff needed
The following are the step by step fitting
instructions provided along with the kit
Figure 1: Transfer case with front and read output housings removed. Sitting to the
left is the actuator motor for locking into 4wd. You can see the clutch
fork and sleeve still attached to the TC at the bottom.
Figure 2:Completely reassembled TC. The front output shaft is on the right side.
Figure 3: looking at the TC from the rear output shaft side. you can see the new large
splined hub before the center diff carrier bearing was pressed on.
Figure 4: Large splined hub installed with carrier bearing pressed on. To the left
you can see the 4wd actuator motor has been reinstalled. Not pictured on
the other side is the front output shaft and housing fully installed.
Figure 5: Freewheel hubs
Figure 6: All the parts being removed from the transfer cases center diff.
OK, now lets get down to my experience with this
After conversing with Rob Kay at ARB Northern a
few times over e-mail I made the purchase with a credit card. The kit arrived a
few days later in a medium sized FedEx box. Everything was accounted for and a
few extra goodies were thrown in. (Thanks Rob!) The first day I received the kit
I installed the freewheel hubs and the center diff. lock sticker. By installing
the hubs before I had completed the kit it made it necessary for me to drive the
truck with the center diff. locked all the time until I got the kit fully
Installing the freewheel hubs
The installation procedure for installing the
hubs was very strait forward and I won’t get into it in any great detail.
Basically what your going to do is remove a front tire, remove the grease cap,
remove the snap ring, remove the 6 flange bolts, replace flange with one in kit,
reinstall the 6 flange bolts and snapring, install freewheel hub with the 6
machine screws provided. Reinstall tire and now do the same for the other side.
Installation of the 2wd kit required me to
increase the number of tools I had, the list above will give you a good idea of
what you going to need.
Remove the Transfercase
I started the conversion by first placing
engaging the center Diff lock on the TC. I drained the TC of fluid, marked and
removed both front and rear drive shafts, and removed the exhaust system from
behind the cats all the way back. Loosen the 8 bolt connecting the transmission
cross bracing to the frame. Place your jack under the center of the cross
bracing and proceed to remove the bolts. Using your 2 car jack stands place them
at either end of the cross bracing about 4 inches lower. You will now be able to
lower your transmission and transfer case a good 4+ inches. Before beginning to
remove the TC, remove all electrical wiring for the Hi/Lo indicator and Diff
lock. You will also need to remove the speedo cable located on the rear output
housing, some hoses and the Hi/Lo shift linkage. Remove the TC by placing your
jack under the transfercase and removing 6 bolts (a couple are hard to get to!).
With the jack supporting the TC slide it about 4 inches towards the rear of the
vehicle to clear the transmission output shaft. Now just lower the TC to the
ground and begin tearing it apart.
Transfercase tear down
The tear down procedures is pretty well
documented in the direction above and in the user manual so I won’t go into
any detail. The 12 center diff carrier bolts can be very hard to remove without
proper tool; I’d recommend a very long handled wrench. Once you have removed
the center diff carrier you will see the parts you will be removing from the TC
(Figure 6) you can see all the parts you will be
removing on Figure 6. Your now going to need to
disassemble the front output housing to get the front output shaft free to get
This was the most time consuming part of the kit;
I had to go to many different machine shops to find someone who could even cut
this hardened output shaft. My advice to you is first finding someone in your
area that can do this job. The machinist is going to either need a toolpost
grinder or high speed lathe, my machinist used a toolpost grinder. I also talked
to a toolmaker that could have done the job, but he directed me to someone who
could complete the job cheaper. One other note, the plans that were included in
the kit were not entirely accurate when comparing dimensions to the actual
shaft. According to Rob Kay there are very slight variations in sizes for the
output shaft. I also ran into a problem with my carrier bearing. The bearing
inside diameter was a couple thousandths larger then the outside diameter of the
new center diff carrier provided with the kit. The bearing could move on and off
by hand. You can see a picture of the new carrier on (Figure
6) and you can also see a picture of the new carrier in place on the
center diff before the bearing has been pressed on. (Figure
3) This problem was fixed by machining very small grooves on the mating
surface of the center diff carrier and using a thread lock like product.
According to Rob Kay this is also the same procedure they had used to fix this
problem. He also said getting a new bearing would also work. You can see a
picture of the bearing installed on the new center diff carrier and bolted to
the center diff. (Figure 4)
Once you have all your parts back, reassemble the
front output housing with your machined front output shaft and follow the
directions for reassembling the TC. This is fairly strait forward and well
documented in the above direction and your used manual so I won’t go into any
detail. You can see a picture of my TC reassembled and ready to reinstall in the
truck (Figure 2) and don’t forget the oil!
So reinstalling the TC is just as easy as
removing, using a jack raise the TC into position and bolt it to the
transmission TC adapter. Reattach the hoses, wires shift linkage and speedo
cable. Reinstall your exhaust and bolt your transmissions cross bracing to the
frame. Install your front and rear drive shafts and you should be ready to go!
Make sure you give everything the once over before you drive off!
My driving impressions
Well for starters the first thing I noticed was
how much more the truck torqued when accelerating from a dead stop. It’s very
apparent the power is going to the rear wheels, the nose of the truck now raises
much more then before. (I LIKE IT!). Acceleration has improved noticeably when
starting from a dead stop. Handling characteristics have changed, turning seems
to be much easier at slower speed and it’s easier to throw the weight of the
vehicle around now that the front end seems to feel lighter. My gas mileage has
also improved, before the kit I was getting a consistent 10 mpg everywhere. I’m
now getting 11.5 mpg city driving and have gotten a 12 mpg on a long highway
trip I took a month after installing the kit. I’m heavy on the gas, so you may
even be able to get better results. So I’ve improved my average range for one
tank of gas from 200 to 230/240 and have a 15% to 20% improvement in fuel
economy, Not bad!
I would like to close by saying that this is the
idiots guide to the 2wd kit install. I’m not a mechanic and have written this
article based only on my experience. If you need technical information I
recommend you contact Rob Kay at ARB Northern. If however you would like a
little more detail on the installation process I would be happy to answer your